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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.